Here’s a hint.
UPDATE (26 March 2009): Sorry for the lack of a follow-up to this post. Sightseeing and its after-effects (sore feet, weary legs, fingers ready to drop off from the chilly spring air) took up most of my time, leaving very little room for updates. I’ll see if I can put something out after I return to my hotel this evening. In any case, I intend to write out a series of detailed, richly illustrated reports as soon as I get home, so please look forward to that. Cheerio.